Below is everything you need: how to check compatibility before you buy, how to wire it up, how to actually achieve 4K 60Hz, and a troubleshooting table that covers the seven failures we see most often.
There are two completely different products that sound almost identical, and they are not interchangeable:
| What you want to do | The adapter you need | Example |
|---|---|---|
| Send video from a USB-C laptop to an HDMI TV or monitor | USB-C (male) → HDMI (female) | MacBook → living room TV |
| Send video from an HDMI device to a USB-C display | HDMI (male) → USB-C (female) — this adapter | PS5 → USB-C portable monitor |
This adapter is the second row. It is unidirectional: signal flows HDMI source → USB-C display, and never the other way. It will not let you plug a MacBook into an HDMI monitor using this cable, and it will not turn a USB-C phone into an HDMI output. If you need that, you need a USB-C to HDMI cable instead.
Anything that pushes a picture through HDMI qualifies: game consoles (PlayStation, Xbox, Nintendo Switch in docked mode), desktop GPUs, laptops with HDMI out, DSLR and mirrorless cameras, drones' controllers, TV sticks and set-top boxes, Steam Deck docks, and Raspberry Pi boards. The adapter does not care what the source is — it only cares that the source is transmitting both video and audio over HDMI.
This is the non-negotiable one. Your display must be a USB-C device that accepts a video signal — portable monitors with a USB-C input, and AR glasses such as XREAL Air, are the two categories built exactly for this. The adapter was upgraded specifically for seamless video and audio with XREAL AR glasses.
Note the limitation: the USB-C female port is video/audio output only. It will not drive a USB-C hub, headphones, an external SSD, or any other peripheral. It is not a data port, and it is not a charger. It is also not compatible with the LG UltraFine 5K display.
Two small accessories decide whether this works:
| Setup | Why people do it |
|---|---|
| Console → XREAL AR glasses | A 100-inch private screen on a plane, in a hotel, or on the couch while the TV is occupied |
| Console → USB-C portable monitor | Portable gaming rig that packs into a backpack |
| Desktop GPU HDMI out → USB-C portable monitor | Add a second or third screen when all your monitor ports are already taken |
| Camera / drone controller → USB-C field monitor | On-set monitoring without buying an HDMI-only monitor |
| Steam Deck dock / mini PC → AR glasses | Head-mounted display for travel and shared living spaces |
| Set-top box → USB-C monitor | Streaming on a small desk screen without an HDMI input |
Total setup time, once you know the ports: about sixty seconds.
The adapter supports 4K at 60Hz, but the whole chain has to cooperate. Four things must all be true:
If you are seeing 1080p on a 4K display, work through that list in order — and remember that the last cable in the chain is the one people forget to upgrade.
| Symptom | Most likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Completely black screen, display says "no signal" | Adapter has no power | Connect the included cable to "DC 5V" and a working 5V charger |
| Still no signal, power is connected | Charge-only USB-C cable to the display | Swap for a USB 3.1 or Thunderbolt 3/4 data+video cable |
| Nothing works at all, in any configuration | Direction is reversed — you are feeding a USB-C source into an HDMI display | This adapter only goes HDMI → USB-C. Buy a USB-C to HDMI cable instead |
| Video appears, no sound | Source is still set to output audio to its own speakers | Set audio output to the connected display in the source's sound settings |
| Works, but capped at 1080p or 30Hz | Old HDMI cable, or display limits USB-C input bandwidth | Use an 18Gbps+ HDMI cable; check the monitor's USB-C spec sheet |
| Image drops out or flickers intermittently | Underpowered charger or a loose HDMI seat | Use a 5V/1A or stronger charger; reseat every connector firmly |
| Black screen only when playing protected streaming content | HDCP copy protection on the source | Expected on protected streams; games and normal video are unaffected — confirm HDCP support with the seller if you need protected playback |
Yes, in docked mode. The Switch only outputs over HDMI when it is in its dock, so run the dock's HDMI output into this adapter and the adapter's USB-C output into your portable monitor or AR glasses. Handheld mode has no HDMI signal to convert.
Yes — this adapter was upgraded specifically for seamless video and audio with XREAL AR glasses. That is the use case it was designed around, and it is why the power port and cable quality matter so much: AR glasses are bus-powered displays with tight tolerances.
No. That is the opposite direction. This is HDMI-in, USB-C-out. For MacBook → HDMI you need a USB-C to HDMI cable.
No. The USB-C port is video and audio output only, using DisplayPort Alt Mode. It does not pass data to peripherals and it does not charge devices.
Yes. The adapter must be powered through the "DC 5V" port using the included USB power cable. It is not optional, and skipping it is the number one cause of a dead screen.
No. The LG UltraFine 5K is explicitly not supported — it requires a Thunderbolt connection rather than DisplayPort Alt Mode.
Ready to connect your console, PC or camera to a USB-C screen?
The UA30-B HDMI to USB-C adapter handles 4K 60Hz with an aluminum-alloy shell and nylon-braided cable, and ships with the 5V power cable you need. One adapter, any HDMI source, any USB-C display.
https://cmy-online.com/products/hdmi-male-to-usb-c-female-cable-adapter-with-usb-c-power-cable-uni-directional-hdmi-source-to-type-c-3-1-display-converter-4k-60hz-thunderbolt-3-adapter-for-macbook-pro
Still not sure which direction you need? Tell us your source device and your display in the comments or email our support team — we will confirm compatibility before you order, so you buy the right cable the first time.
